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PAMPERED IN PROVENCE
Enjoy the beauty of a break in Provence.
A jagged bolt of lightning split the sky as storm clouds rolled in over the pre-Alps. Viewed from the comfort of the hotels outdoor Jacuzzi it made a dramatic, if slightly surreal scene.
This was hardly the weather we were expecting on a late May/early June visit to Provence and the Cote DAzur. When it cleared, the surrounding mountains were swathed in snow, making the panorama even more breathtaking.
Surprised locals assured us it was a once-in-a-decade occurrence and we considered ourselves lucky, in viewing terms at least, to have had a small taste of winter in the early French summer.
The base for our stay was the studied elegance of Le Mas Candille, an award-winning four-star deluxe spa hotel, situated in the medieval village of Mougins.
Like much of southern France, Le Mas Candille is very popular with British visitors. Converted from an 18th century olive farm, it is perched on a hillside with extensive grounds and views to Grasse and the mountains beyond.
The hotel oozes period charm while offering visitors the latest in modern amenities to provide for their every need.
Outside, the hotel grounds feature a large infinity pool with poolside terrace and bar, and a smaller private pool, especially suitable for children. Theres also a sauna, fitness room and a grassy sun terrace.
But it is the Shiseido Spa that helps set Le Mas Candille apart from many other well appointed residences.
Using the unique Qi method - a subtle blend of Oriental and Western practices - a range of treatments are available to relieve stress and promote relaxation.
They range from a 30-minute manicure to a four-hour ultimate pampering session.
While I opted for a wonderfully relaxing and rejuvenating one-hour back care treatment, my wife had a 90-minute time balance facial treatment, which she assured me was better than any she had experienced in England.
Difficult though it was to tear ourselves away from the hotel, the village of Mougins, just five minutes walk away, is well worth a visit.
At one time it was considered more important than nearby Cannes, and the surviving ramparts and Saracen Gate testify to its power in the Middle Ages.
Today, it is a fascinating mix of narrow streets and alleyways, art galleries, cafes and restaurants to suit all pockets.
Picasso discovered Mougins in 1935 and moved to live there from 1961 to the end of his life.
While his former house cannot be visited, the free Musee de la Photographie, in the village centre, features a whole floor of black and white photographs depicting the great man at work and play locally, providing a flavour of his time here.
Walking around the peaceful and unspoilt village its easy to see what drew him and fellow artists like Man Ray to the area.
One of the most interesting art galleries is situated in Le Lavoir, an old covered wash-house, allegedly still used by some determined laundresses today.
Mougins is also an excellent base to explore the region, with Cannes just 25 minutes away by bus; Nice a 30-minute drive, and the rest of the French Riviera nearby.
The area is ideal for gourmands and food and drink are sure to figure large in any holiday here.
Le Mas Candille has its own Michelin-starred restaurant featuring panoramic views of the mountains.
On summers evenings guests can dine al fresco while chef Serge Gouloumes puts his culinary skills to use in producing a truly gourmet experience.
Our six-course dinner featured such delights as slender slices of chicken braised with champagne and black summer truffles.
The meal was delicious and well complimented by the wines, chosen by the wine waiter to accompany each course.
Wonderful though this was, Ive got to say that no stay in Mougins would be complete without a visit to Le Moulin de Mougins, the acclaimed restaurant run by chef Alain Llorca and rated by at least one guide as one of the greatest in the world.
Located in a 16th century oil mill just outside the village, it certainly isnt cheap. For this restaurant is a haunt of the stars, the well-heeled and well-connected. Just the week before we visited, with the Cannes film festival in full swing, Sharon Stone and Halle Berry were among the celebrities to eat there.
On our visit, Alain welcomed us with champagne cocktails before cooking a specially prepared meal served to us in a roomy, comfortable and elegant dining room by his friendly staff.
A series of subtly crafted, very different, but complimentary dishes - including foie gras, cuttlefish and truffles - floated by.
Even the arrival of a hand towel was done to dramatic effect. Placed end up on a large plate, it wasnt until the waiter poured hot water over it and the towel expanded that we realised what it was!
The dessert was even more spectacular - a kind of chocolate bombe, which collapsed when hot chocolate sauce was poured over it, revealing raspberry sorbet inside.
Expensive, yes, but for a unique gastronomic experience Le Moulin de Mougins is well worth pushing the boat out. Its an ideal addition to a relaxing stay at Le Mas Candille.
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